Destroyed Lives

From the Atomic Bomb Epicentre, it is just a short walk to Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum. The walk takes you past a number of sculptures, including the Flame of Peace.

“The women at home prayed for victory as their men departed for the battlefields.  But then the blood of countless peoples was shed on the vast continent and the far away islands.

Finally, in 1945 as the war escalated, it brought the tragedies of the Okinawa Islands followed by the inhuman atomic bomb attacks over Hiroshima on the 6th and Nagasaki on the 9th of August.

Ah! On that unforgettable day, in an instantaneous blast of indescribable heat, the bodies of tens of thousands of men and women, mothers and children were hideously torn and burned to death.  

After more than forty years, the agony continues over [???] rot! Danger of a second nuclear war permeate our very existence.  The earth stands on the brink of total oblivion.

We must not allow any more war!  Nor the use of atomic weapons!  Let us guard our precious green earth and preserve all life of every kind.

We erect this relief, still nearing the bursting cries on that day of each of those women long silenced in death.  Bringing together all the turmoil from the depths of their tortured hearts and minds, we pledge ourselves never to repeat this disaster. ” 

The Flame of Peace.

“This is a pledge that Nagasaki will be the last city to suffer an atomic bombing.”

The flame was sent from Mount Olympus in Greece in August 1983, one of the rare times that it has been sent forth, other than for the Olympic Games.  In Ancient Greece all warring factions stopped fighting whilst the Olympic flame was lit.  This flame will be kept burning until all the nuclear weapons in the world have been abolished.

The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

Just inside the entrance to the museum, we were met with more strands of threaded cranes, this time with helpful instructions on how to fold them in both Japanese and English.

As you enter the exhibition hall, you are confronted with a shattered wall clock with its hands stuck at the fateful hour of the explosion, 11:02.  It was found in a house some 800 metres from the epicentre, near the Sanna Shinto Shrine in Sakamoto-machi.  Time then takes a detour back to a period before the bomb

to the arrival of Portuguese ships in 1571 in the port of Nagasaki, through the port’s exclusive relations between Holland and China when Nagasaki was Japan’s only, barely, open port from 1641 to 1859.  It was in Nagasaki that students slowly gathered from all over Japan to gradually acquire Western Knowledge. The interaction increased with the greater opening of Japan in the Meiji period from 23rd October 23rd 1868 to 30th July 1912, during which Japan moved from a feudal society to a highly modern, highly industrialised one under Emperor Meiji.

With the 19th Century opening up, Western-style buildings stood side-by-side with traditional Japanese ones and the foreign settlements bustled in the late 19th century.  Nagasaki gradually changed from a trading port to a centre of shipbuilding over this period, making it a target for bombing by 9th August 1945.

Nagasaki Before the Bombing (Photographed by the US Army on August 7, 1945)

Below the burgeoning cloud the wooden walls of Fuchi Primary school, 1.2 km from the epicentre were carbonised by the ferocious heat.  The water tank at Keiho Middle School, 800 m from the blast buckled in the intense heat and blast.

In the Urakami district of Nagasaki, around the Cathedral, Christian missionary work had been fermenting since the arrival of the Basque Francis Xavier. He was a co-founder with Ignatius of Loyola of The Society of Jesus, The Jesuits, in 1540 where they made private vows of poverty, chastity and obedience to the Pope, and also vowed to go to the Holy Land to convert infidels.  Xavier found his infidels further afield than most, leading an extensive mission across Asia, mainly within the Portuguese Empire, travelling to and evangelising in Japan, Borneo and China before he died aged 46.  The Christian mission was established at Urakami from the latter part of the 16th Century, but when Christianity was outlawed in 1587 the converts went underground, until the ban was finally lifted in 1873. The faithful then started to build the grandest church in East Asia, completed it in 1914, bar the twin 26m high church spires which were completed in 1925. Just 20 years later the atomic bomb blew down the spires and reduced the church to a hollow shell.

The Wall of Urakami Cathedral After the Atomic Bombing (reproduction of section in the Museum)

One of the largest Catholic churches in East Asia at the time, Urakami Cathedral was located only some 500m northeast of the epicentre and suffered almost complete destruction by the atomic bomb.  As at the Peace Park, a section of the Cathedral’s southern walls that withstood the blast has been rebuilt within the museum, the section in the museum indicated by the red arrow, that at the Peace Park by the black arrow. The statues were blackened by the heat rays and fire, and the stone pillars were pushed out of alignment. At the time of the explosion, two priests at the Cathedral were busy hearing confession and several parishioners were waiting their turn to be heard. All died under the rubble as the building collapsed.  A couple of rosaries were later recovered from the amongst the debris.

A melted rosary was also recovered from a house some 500m from the epicentre, its glass beads melting like toffee in the ferocious heat. It belonged to a woman, who had been visiting a relative’s house next to the church at the time of the explosion.  It was found in the rubble by the woman’s daughter searching through the ashes of the house the day after the explosion. She treasured the rosary for many years, as a memento of her mother, before donating it to the museum on the 40th anniversary of the bombing.

Testimony of a Survivor: I don’t know what happened, only that there was a bright flash of light.  Then everything was destroyed.

Both atomic bombs, the one for Hiroshima and the one destined for Nagasaki, were loaded onto their respective B-29 Superfortress bombers on Tinian Island, one of the islands of The Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands.  The Bockscar was loaded on 6th August, the day that the Enola Gray dropped the Little Boy bomb – a gun-type fission weapon that used Uranium-235 – on Hiroshima. On 8th August 1945, Field Order No 17 was issued by the 20th US Air Force Headquarters on Guam calling for its use the following day on either Kokura, the primary target, or Nagasaki, the secondary target. Originally destined for Kokura, now in the southern outskirts of Fukouka, the smoke cover prevented a visual sighting of the target, so Major Charles Sweeney abandoned the primary target of his bombing raid and flew south west to his secondary target of Nagasaki and dropped his bomb, a Plutonium implosion-type nuclear weapon. 

At that time, 9th August 1945, Nagasaki City had a population of approx. 240,000. Estimates of casualties up to the end of December 1945, 73,884 had died and 74,909 were injured.

(Source: 1950 study by the Committee for the Preservation of Atomic Bomb Artifacts).

These casualties were inflicted by Fat Man, nicknamed as such because of its shape, a replica of which stands in the museum. It was 3.25m long, 1.52m in diameter and weighed 4.5T. Explosives imploded the core of plutonium, which set off a chain reaction equivalent to 21kT of TNT.

The explosion actually occurred up in the sky 500m above the epicentre, creating a force equivalent, it is said, to 5,200 trucks each carrying 4 tons of dynamite, all of which were huddled together and detonated simultaneously, all the while producing radiation, which did further harm.

In the area near the epicentre, everything combustible burst into flames as a result of the tremendous flash of heat.  Glass melted, ceramic roof tiles bubbled and rocks turned black, leaving permanent evidence of the ferocity of the flash.  

Although the temperature decreased with distance, clothing, telephone poles and trees as far as 2 km from the epicentre were burned or scorched.

The explosion scorched stones such as these gathered from a garden at Gokoku, on the other side of the river from prison, now the location of the Nagasaki Peace Park. Surfaces exposed directly to the heat rays burned and changed colour, but unexposed areas retained their original colour. The burning flash led to silhouettes being left on surfaces throughout Nagasaki.

The instantaneous flash of heat at 11:02, effectively branded the city, capturing a moment in time in a way unlike any other.

A lookout had just come down from the roof of the Nagasaki Fortress Headquarters, some 4.4km from the epicentre, as the bomb exploded. The tarry coating of the wooden walls of the HQ exposed to the flash, burned and evaporated. Those parts of the wooden wall “protected” by the ladder and the lookout kept their tar coating creating this silhouette of the lookout and his ladder on a wall.

Found in the ruins of a store about 400m from the epicentre, these bottles melted at the top and stuck together.

This view of Yamazato-machi facing Shiroyama-machi was taken from the opposite side of the hill from where Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum now stands.

The damage caused by the initial flash of heat and blast was aggravated by subsequent fires.  These levelled neighbourhoods where the blast had inflicted only partial damage.  In total, 12,900 houses burned to ashes and another 5,509 were partially burned.  The fire also increased the number of victims.  Many people trapped under fallen debris, who had suffered only external injuries, died as the fire raged through the city.

The flash of heat generated by the atomic bomb caused isolated fires that grew into a conflagration that raged through the traditional wooden buildings of Nagasaki. Centred on Urakami district of the Cathedral and extending 3.5km south of the epicentre, the fires fanned by a south-westerly wind reduced about one-third of the city of Nagasaki to ashes (the area marked in beige on the map).  

Around 6pm the wind changed direction, and the fires started to lose fuel – the Conflagration dying out around midnight.

The heat generated over a short span of a few seconds showered down on unshielded people and caused terrible burns for those further away.  In the area near the epicentre, it is believed that the heat instantly carbonized human bodies and vaporized their internal fluids. Further out in particularly severe cases, the skin came off in sheets, revealing the subcutaneous tissues and bones.  The burns were fatal within a distance of 1.2km. 

The Atomic Wind

The velocity of the blast wind generated by the atomic bomb was 170m/s at a point 1km from the epicentre. Compare that with the fiercest of typhoons which only reach speeds ca 80m/s.  It is estimated that the ground beneath the explosion was subjected instantaneously to a pressure of between 6.7 and 10 metric tons per square metre. The blast pulverised all buildings near the epicentre, travelling 3.7km after 10 seconds and 11km after 30 seconds. The wind lost strength at this point but it was reported that a window was broken on Iojima island way to the south.

Mitsubishi Arms Factory Ohashi Plant about 1.3 km north of the Epicentre

The Mitsubishi Factory was the target of the bomb.  It was devastated.

The Iwakawa-machi district of Nagasaki is near central railway station. Whist all around it was devastated, the first gate of Sanno Shinto Shrine, about 800m south of the epicentre remained standing.  The nuclear wind hit it directly from the side, which meant that it withstood the blast. All around it collapsed and burned.

The One Day After The Bomb

At The Epicentre the buildings were burned completely to ashes.  The ruins seemed to have been crushed under a huge stream-roller, and charred corpses lay scattered in the rubble.

The Effects of Exposure to Radiation

Radiation exerts physical and genetic effects on humans.  Physical effects in the person exposed, while genetic effects appear in his or her children and grandchildren, that is, in second and third generation survivors. 

The radiation released by the explosion of the atomic bomb penetrated human bodies and destroyed cells in various tissues.  The extent of injuries depends on the radiation dose, but the vast majority of all people within a distance of one kilometre from the epicentre died.  This included people without external injuries.  The effects of radiation on survivors of the initial blast continued for many years – indeed until today. The radiation inflicted deep internal injuries of various kinds and varying manifestations over time.

Disorders of the Acute Phase:

Radiation-induced disorders in the acute phase appeared immediately after the bombing.  Particularly severe among people exposed at short distances from the epicentre, the disorders include nausea, diarrhoea, fever, subcutaneous haemorrhage and stomatitis.  The victims’ condition steadily deteriorated and deaths became frequent after about one week. (LH Graph)

Epilation (hair loss) appeared from about one week after exposure and reached a peak at three weeks.  This symptom was observed frequently in directly exposed persons, and it continued for one to two weeks. The survivors, who had been exposed to invisible radiation, suffered great anxiety to see their hair coming out in handfuls, but it began to grow back from eight to ten weeks after the bombing. (RH Graph)

Atomic Bomb Cataract

Atomic bomb cataracts appeared about 10 months after exposure to the bombing in the early cases.  The incidence was higher, the shorter the distance from the epicentre, and severe cases tended to appear earlier than mild cases.  In some people the cataracts did not appear for several years.  Cataracts (the lens of the eye becoming crystalline) are usually associated with age, but the atomic bomb cataracts appeared in people of various ages.

Microcephaly

Radiation also affected children in the womb.  Miscarriages and stillbirths were frequent, and some newborns suffered from a condition called “microcephaly” (small head syndrome).  Microcephaly occurred relatively frequently among children exposed in the uterus at a gestational age of less than 16 weeks.  The brain is small due to growth disorders, and structural deformities are also observed.  Many cases of microcephaly were accompanied by other symptoms such as congenital cataracts.

Leukaemia

The incidence of leukaemia, a disease known as “cancer of the blood” peaked in 1951, six years after the atomic bombing.  The blood and blood-forming tissues are vulnerable to radiation, and the incidence of leukaemia increases in proportion to the dose.  There is also a correlation with age, people exposed at a young age suffering from the disease at a relatively early stage.  Studies continue on atomic bomb-related leukaemia, but no leap in the incidence level has been observed since 1951.

Cancer

Leukaemia was not the only radiation-induced disease.  The atomic bomb survivors have lived in fear of various kinds of cancer from ten years after the bombing to the present day. It is not clear why the cancer remains latent for such a long period.  Further research is needed to shed light on the effects of the atomic bombings.

Psychological effects such as post-trauma stress disorder (PTSD) due to the brutality of the atomic bomb experience have caused lifelong suffering among survivors.

Radiation sickness was noted among people exposed beyond 2km, a fact that indicates the need to take both direct exposure and residual radiation into account.

With regard to the children of parents exposed to the atomic bomb (second-generation survivors), studies conducted from the late 1940s have revealed no evidence of increased abnormalities.

Correlation Between Time Of The Explosion and The Radiation

Eyewitness Accounts

Foreign Atomic Bomb Survivors in Nagasaki

A large number of non-Japanese people, especially Koreans, who had been brought by force to work in munition factories, etc., were exposed to the Nagasaki atomic bombing.  The victims also included many Chinese and Taiwanese people, Christians, Christian missionaries and foreigners interned as enemy nationals.  

At Branch No 14 of the Fukuoka Prisoner-of-War Camp in Saiwaimachi (north of the main railway station), the British, Dutch, Australian and other Allied prisoners were exposed to the atomic bombing.  Only rough estimates can be made about the number of foreign atomic bomb victims and survivors.

The War Between Japan and China, The Pacific War and World War II

Japan was engaged in war constantly for 15 years, first from the Manchurian incident in September 1931 to the outbreak of war with China, and then Pacific War which ended in August 1945.

The direct action in Manchuria began with the assassination of its warlord Zhang Zuolin by Japanese extremists in June 1928, followed by occupation of the Liadong Peninsula (coloured red below) by the Japanese Kwantung Army. The Manchurian Incident in September 1931 was a false flag event in which the Japanese Kwantung Army alleged that Chinese soldiers had tried to bomb a South Manchurian Railway train.

https://www.britannica.com/place/Empire-of-Japan/The-Manchurian-Incident

It led to the formation of Manchuko by the Japanese, with the installation of their Manchu puppet the last of the Manchurian Qing Dynasty Emperors, PuYi, who had, as a child, been the Last Emperor of China.

The prolongation of the war with China caused the enforcement of a controlled economy and government domination by Japan, i.e. fascist.  Its policy of southern expansion by creating the Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere brought Japan into conflict with America, Britain, France and The Netherlands and led to the Pacific War.  The people of other Asian nations were also dragged into conflict and victimized in various ways.

The museum is interesting to visit and very informative about the direct effects of a plutonium implosion-type nuclear weapon.

The last display wall of the museum depicted the history of nuclear weapons and their development to the present day.

1945 July The US Conducts the world’s first nuclear test at Alamogordo, New Mexico

         Aug Atomic bombs are dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki on the 6th and 9th

1946    Jun-July The US conducts a nuclear test at Bikini Atoll.  The Atomic Energy Commission is established

            The Baruch Plan and Gromyko Plan are proposed

1949    Sept The U.S.S.R. announces its success in the testing of an atomic bomb

1950    Jan U.S. President Truman orders the manufacture of hydrogen bombs

            Aug A B-29 bomber loaded with nuclear weapons crashes in the US and gunpowder explodes

1951    Nov The Us Conducts a nuclear test in the Nevada desert with the participation of ground forces

1952    Oct  Britain conducts its first nuclear test at Monte Bello Island

            Nov The U.S. conducts the world’s first hydrogen bomb test at Eniwetok Atoll

1953    Aug The U.S.S.R. conducts its first hydrogen bomb test

1954    Mar The U.S. conducts a hydrogen bomb test (Bravo) at Bikini Atoll

(the Daigo Fukuryu-maru [No. 5 Lucky Dragon] is exposed)

1997    May The U.S. opened its subcritical nuclear test facility to the media.  The photograph shows the test site in the Nevada desert.  Among the nuclear powers, only the USA disclosed the number of subcritical nuclear test (27) it has conducted.

1998    May India conducted a nuclear test in the desert in the western state of Rajastan Crater formed by an Indian Nuclear Test

2003    Jan  North Korea announces its withdrawal from the NPT

            Feb The President of Iran announces enriched Uranium production

            Apr The US Department of Defence is found to have begun research on earth-penetrating weapons

            May The US Congress lifts a 10-year ban on the development of small scale nuclear weapons

            Nov  Enriched Uranium is detected at Natanz and other Iranian nuclear facilities

2004    Feb A “nuclear black market” involving Pakistani scientist Dr A Q Kahn is found to exist.

2005    Feb North Korea officially announces its acquisition of nuclear weapons

            Sept The US decides not to alter budget funding for the development of earth-penetrating weapons in 2006.

2006 North Korea announces a successful nuclear test.

The Nagasaki National Peace Memorial For the Atomic Bomb Victims

Outside the Museum is the best place of all – the reflective pool above the Nagasaki National Peace Memorial for the Atomic Bomb Victims. It allows time for reflection, and although the water calmed me, I was still felt unsettled about what I had seen and read that morning.

I had an unease about this recounting of the Nagasaki Bombing, not just of the damage done to Nagasaki itself or its people, that was real enough, but the whole story of the Atom Bomb that I was being told, both in the red brick museum and the Peace Park before it.  I couldn’t quite put my finger on it at the time, but there was something that made me feel that things weren’t quite right.

But what was it that didn’t stack up?

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Under The Shadow Of The Bomb

My third trip to Japan started on the island of Kyūshū, the most westerly main island of Japan – the one with ferry links to Busan at the southern tip of South Korea, which is how Rozy joined the two of us. Richard stayed for our weekend in Fukouka, whilst Rozy and I went on together to explore Japan further.  Our last day on Kyūshū was spent on a day trip to the port city Nagasaki, the site of the second atomic bomb dropped on Japan in 1945.  It was a bright cloudless sunny day as we took the fast train south and west to the port on the island’s western coast.

The port is surrounded on three sides by verdant mountains and the fjord that points westwards into the East China Sea forms a long natural harbour in the shape of a Crane.  It was this harbour that greeted the first westerners to Japan.  They arrived  in Portuguese ships in the 16th Century and subsequent centuries had a complex and colourful history of interactions between the two cultures.

The first atomic bomb to be dropped on Japanese soil was released by the Enola Gray above Hiroshima on the western end of the main central island of Japan at 08.15 am on 6th August 1945.  The first bomb, known as “Little Boy”, was an enriched uranium gun-type fission weapon.  

The second one known as “Fat Man” was a plutonium implosion-type nuclear weapon and dropped by the B-29 bomber known as “Bockscar”.  It was destined for the industrial area of Kokura on the southern edge of Fukouka, but the weather prevented a visual sighting of the target and after circling three times the plane headed for its secondary target that of the Mitsubishi Nagasaki Arms factory. The bomb was dropped from 9,000m through a crack in the clouds at 11.02 am on 9th August 1945.  The bomb exploded with a blinding flash of light and an earth rending roar 500metres above Matsuyama-machi in the northern part of Nagasaki.  

The statistics of victims are horrendous, and puts the bombing just at Nagasaki on a par with the lower range of the estimated number of victims of the Nanjing Massacre (aka The Rape of Nanking) inflicted on the Chinese by the Japanese between December 1937 and January 1939 where it is estimated that the victims numbered between 100,000 and 300,00 – more of this another time.

We visited the spot just over 71 years later, climbing first the steps up to the long narrow Nagasaki Peace Park, dedicated to World Peace and the elimination of nuclear weapons.

At the top of the steps we were greeted by a fountain of everchanging water jets in the shape of the wings of a bird, evoking the flapping of the wings of The Dove of Peace as well as those of a Crane – the symbol of Nagasaki

After the bomb dropped, thousands of the victims with terrible burns died gasping for water and the fountain paid for by donations from all over Japan, is dedicated as an offering of water to these people and a prayer for the repose of their souls.  

“It is our ardent wish that you will remember the departed victims whilst visiting this fountain and that you will join us in striving for world peace.”

In the World Peace Symbol Zone is a monument donated by the USSR, called the statue of Peace, depicting the love & peace of a mother holding her child.

and a symbolic Tree of Life with a Gift of Peace in the form of a piti (dish) used for carrying food, representing the sharing of resources between families, communities and nations for peace and harmony.  Gifted by the city of Freemantle, the port of Perth, Western Australia it was sent in recognition of atomic survivors worldwide, including Hibakusha of Nagasaki and Hiroshima; and indigenous Australians, service personnel and civilian workers, and their descendants, affected by British nuclear testing in Australia at Maralinga, Emu Field and Monte Bello Islands. 

The bell tower with prone children displays the following witness account:

“I was fourteen years old.  On the hot summer morning of August 9th 1945 I was working at Mitsubishi Ohashi Arsenal.  The atomic bomb was dropped only 1.1 km from my factory.  The explosion took place just when I was temporarily moving from my usual workplace to the adjoining building of the parts repairing shop as my boss told me to do so luckily the big solid pillar protected me from major injury, but the bomb blast blew my body fourteen metres away from where I was standing. The boss who ordered me to change my job site was found dead instantaneously. Unless he had ordered me to go to that neighbouring building, I must too have been killed. Only one colleague and I were the survivors out of all 32 workers. As a survivor from the atomic bomb, I would like to talk about my experience, and to convey my message to you all how horrible atomic bombing was and how valuable peace is.”

Other sculptures include this mother protecting her infant-child presented by Nagasaki’s twinned Dutch City of Middelburg situated at the mouth of the River Scheldt, named The Protection of Our Future, and this strange plant-style sculpture which had no inscription at all thus giving no clue to its meaning or its donors.

Monument to Commemorate Chinese Victims of the Atomic Bombing

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Here too there is some recognition of the forced labour, mainly Chinese, illegally taken to Japan to work in mines, the docks and “public works projects”.  This monument therefore stands not only for the victims of the bombing but also for the harsh conditions and cruel treatment in the labour camps, which led to the death of 6830 in just one year.

35 businesses were involved in this forced labour activity in 135 separate places of work all over Japan.  In Nagasaki Prefecture out of 1042 Chinese nationals 998 worked in coalmines for Mitsubishi, Hashima, Sakito and Nittetsu corporations.  The monument was erected in July 2008, in the hope of promoting Sino-Nippon relationships more than 50 years after the bombing in which 115 of the slaves died. Sino-Nippon relations are still strained to this day.

The Crane Monument

The Crane Monument of Nagasaki, and in particular the origami Cranes, have become a well-known motif around the world for world peace, but particularly in Japan.  These folded threaded cranes are strung up in many places around Nagasaki.

And the Peace park appears to be set up to cater well for school trips who come to learn about this part of Japan’s World War 2 history. 

The Urakami Branch Of Nagasaki Prison

The long thin site on which the Peace Park now sits was the Urakami Branch of Nagasaki Prison when the bomb dropped. The site was 20,000 m2, with its offices covering 13,000 m2.  It was located between 100m and 350m north of the hypocentre of the atomic bomb and was the closest public building to the epicentre. 

The reinforced concrete prison walls which were 4m high & 0.25m thick, were reduced practically to their foundations.

Other than the chimney, the wooden office & kitchen buildings were blown apart sand completely burned.  

The bomb killed 18 staff, 35 residents, 81 inmates including 32 Chinese and 13+ Koreans – a total of 134 people.  The memorials to the Chinese & Korean victims are in the Shiratori-machi detention centre.

The Peace Statue

The peace statue was erected by the citizens of the city in August 1955 on the 10th Anniversary of the bombing.  It is dedicated to lasting world peace and as a prayer that such an act would never be repeated. 

“Divine omnipotence and love are embodied in the sturdy physique and gentle countenance of the statue, and a prayer for the repose of the souls of all war victims is expressed in the closed eyes.  Furthermore, the folded right leg symbolizes quiet mediation, while the left leg is poised for action in assisting humanity.”

Words from the Sculptor

After experiencing that nightmarish war.

That blood-curdling carnage

That unendurable horror

Who could walk away without praying for peace?

This statue was created as a signpost in the 

Struggle for global harmony

Standing ten metres tall

It conveys the profundity of knowledge and

The beauty of health and virility.

The right-hand points to the atomic bomb,

The left-hand points to peace,

And the face prays deeply for the victims of war.

Transcending the barriers of race

And evoking the qualities of both Buddha and God,

It is a symbol of the greatest determination 

Ever known in the history of Nagasaki

And of the highest hope of all mankind

Seibo Kitamura

Spring 1955

For me the pool around the base and the multi-holed vase for floral tributes at the front of the statue said much more about peace and prayer than this great hulking soviet-style beast, that loomed over us all.

The Vault For the Unclaimed Remains of Victims

The charnel house contains the ashes of 8927 victims of the bomb, but in addition enshrine the Sarira (a relic of Buddha) which were donated to Nagasaki by India’s late Prime Minister Jawaharial Nehru in April of 1954. 

“We resolve that Nagasaki should be “the last place to suffer an atomic bombing” so that nowhere will ever again endure the same devastation as Nagasaki did due to Nuclear weapons.  Following this we are working hard to achieve the abolition of nuclear weapons.”

Returning back through the park we headed down the steps towards the epicentre of Atomic Bomb, passing en-route the site of a former Air-raid Shelter.

Japan had been at war with China since 1937 in what has been named the Second Sino-Japanese War when China finally mounted resistance to the Japanese invasion of its territory in 1931. But it wasn’t until December 7, 1941 (December 8 in Japan), Japan declared war on the United States, and the Pacific War began. From around 1944, as air raids on Japan’s mainland intensified, air-raid shelters were constructed around the nation by community associations (neighbourhood associations) and individual households under were constructed by digging tunnels into hillsides using hilly and mountainous landforms, and then connecting those tunnels inside.  When American aircraft came near, red alert sirens went off and people evacuated to those air-raid shelters. That it took them so long to build air-raid shelters at home, gives an indication to someone brought up in England of the Japanese mind set during WW2 and also begs the question at what date did WW2 actually begin?

Many public and private cave-type air-raid shelters were constructed in hillsides in the vicinity of Peace Park, the location of the Urakami Branch of Nagasaki Prison.  Although most people within 500m of ground zero were killed instantly by the bomb, many others barely survived inside the shelters.  However, most people who were exposed to the A-bombing sustained serious injuries due to fire and radiation, and died in agony one after another, unable to receive any treatment in the shelter that they had evacuated to.

After the end of the war, the damage done by the atomic bombing to the shelters located near ground zero was investigated by the occupying US military, which recorded in detail the internal configuration of the shelters and the positions where survivors and the dead were found.  The survey’s findings are said to have been used as a reference in constructing other nuclear shelters in preparation for nuclear wars after World War II.

According to a survey conducted in 2009 by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism, there were 193 air-raid shelters in Nagasaki during the war.  Located very close to ground zero (approximately 100m) shelters in Peace Park and Matsuyama-machi are valuable as remaining structures that convey the importance of peace, the power of the atomic bomb and the horrors of war, including how people lived before, during and after the A-bomb was dropped.

The Atomic Bomb Hypocentre

At 11:02am on 9th August 1945, an atomic bomb exploded approximately 500m above this spot.  In an instant, many lives were lost.  By October 1945 the first structure to be erected  in this area was a monolith marking the epicentre.

The fierce blast wind and heat rays reaching several thousand degrees together with deadly radiation reduced the city area to ruins.  Approx. one third of Nagasaki City was destroyed in the blast and it was said that the area would be devoid of vegetation for the next 75 years, although the greenery evident today shows that that forecast was pessimistic. 

Now a tall black monolith marks the spot where the temporary marker stood.  It is a quiet and reflective spot and the simple space and reminded me of the reflective garden at Kiftsgate Court Garden in the Cotswolds.

Standing next to the monolith is a part of the Urakami Cathedral – a broken church wall – still standing after the blast.  It was however removed from its position and rebuilt here was part of the epicentre park, to make way for a newly constructed church in 1958.

The Cathedral was at one time the grandest Christian Church in the whole of the Far East and was located on a small hill some 300m north of the epicentre. Started in 1895 and completed in 1914, the bell tower – the final piece of construction was completed only 40 years before the church was destroyed. On top of the brick tower are statues of Christ and one of his apostles.

In the aftermath of the bombing this area was strewn with huge amounts of debris from destroyed buildings – melted glass and other material – and scorched earth.  The original pre-bomb ground level is preserved within this small park around the stream and pool, as reminder to the amount of debris that lay waste around about.

The present embankment, which was built during river refurbishment work from 1984 to 1985, includes some of the original stones that still bear scars from the flash of heat generated by the atomic bomb explosion.

In August 1945 the stream and surrounding area soon became filled with the corpses of victims, as mortally burned and injured folk made their way here trying to find a drink of water. 

A survivor who witnessed the scene the next day described it was follows: “I crossed the half-destroyed Matsuyama Bridge over Shimonokawa.  There were so many human corpses under it that they formed a dam in the stream!  It was like a vision of the Apocalypse, a living hell on earth.  Not a speck of cloud tainted the sky above, but the earth below was a panorama of carnage and destruction”. (from “Testimonies of Nagasaki” [1970]).

The remaining monument in the park is statue by Nagasaki-born sculptor Naoki Tominaga, which expresses this child and parental loss. 70% of the victims of the Nagasaki atomic bombing were children, women and the elderly.

On the 50th Anniversary of the bomb-drop the epicentre was refurbished and designated as a “prayer zone” a place to pray for the repose of the atomic bomb victims to inform the world about the horror of the atomic bombing and to appeal for the abolition of nuclear weapons and for the realisation of world peace.

Let’s hope that these visiting schoolchildren learned lessons that our forefathers failed to heed.

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Frustratingly Challenging

Well hasn’t 2020 been a strange year, so far?  

Being isolated in my “care-bubble” for much of the year has meant that I have had, like so many I suppose, a chance to look inwards and backwards far more this year than most.  And one of the things I have realised is that I have so much material that I acquired whilst out in the Far East that I really ought to start sharing what happened to us once again.

These blog posts ground to a halt for a number of reasons.  The first was the frustration of a really poor internet connection and the endless hours of lost work that disappeared into the aether as I tried to load each post over the Chinese Great Firewall and onto an American server for these posts on WordPress to be published.

But that wasn’t the only reason.  I eventually made contact with the Shanghai Quilting Group by accident and joined their small, but sociable, group that met weekly over lunch in each other’s houses and apartments.  This got me quilting in a big way and my

old routine of sightseeing in the afternoon and writing about my experience the following morning dissolved into stitching in the morning but still roaming around Shanghai in the afternoons and evenings trying to understand the place.  Over the years I have learned that the best way to make real friends is to do something with your hands whilst chatting on and off as the whim takes you.  Big friendships are built up in this way – at school, in clubs etc as unforced chatter takes place whenever someone decides to voice something.  But there is no need to fill any silence with hot air and the more introverted can enjoy the company of others without having to “join in”.  I think it is this aspect of the lockdown in the West that is the most crippling to our societies at the moment: the loss of unforced chitchat in pubs and clubs across the land.

I also had illness in the family.  Illnesses such as my father’s major stroke in the autumn of 2015, from which he never really recovered and this meant much more to-ing and fro-ing between East and West than before  – with me spending much of 2017 here, rather than there.

The other activity that got in the way was my taking a photography course.  This meant that I learned to take much better photographs. But I found I couldn’t take good photographs and go exploring at the same time.  Good photography, it turns out, is about taking pictures of light, not of objects.  You set up the shot of the correct light and wait for the right moment. This is totally at odds with visiting museums, following a walk acquiring information and just snapping what you see to remind you of where you have been and what you have done.  I could either take good photos, or explore Shanghai.  I couldn’t seem to manage to do both.

So writing blog posts for The Pearls From The Orient fell by the wayside, until now.  I shall endeavour to remember things correctly, but I know I shall get some things wrong.  I will not follow things in chronological order anymore, but write about interesting people, places and events that swam passed us in our three years in China from the beginning of 2015 to the end of 2017.

I hope that what I write entertains and informs.  I shall do my best.

When we returned to the UK many would ask: What is China like then? And both Richard and I struggled to find the right answer.  How can you sum up three years to answer such a question?  I finally came up with the phrase

Fascinatingly Challenging……

So without more ado, herein lies more fascinatingly challenging Pearls From The Orient.

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The Last Post

What shall I miss about Shanghai?

  1. The speed at which it has grown/developed, is growing and continues to grow.
  2. The variety
  3. The buzz
  4. The foreigness of it all
  5. The tai chi outside on the pavement at 7pm in the dark.  Neighbours gather to exercise.
  6. The smiling welcoming faces of the locals
  7. The many dear friends I have made.

Oh for F@ck’s sake!

  1. Electric Scooters cutting you up on the pavement
  2. Spitting
  3. Coughing over meat by a stallholder in the wet market – several times
  4. Being sick on the metro
  5. Picking their noses on the metro
  6. Taking no notice of green lights at pedestrian crossings
  7. Cycling the wrong way down streets
  8. Getting on the metro whilst you are trying to get off
  9. Walking into you because they have headphones on and are staring at a screen whilst walking
  10. Emptying their nostrils into public bins
  11. The way live fish are treated, and turtles and frogs, and birds
  12. People with expensive cars trying to run you over
  13. No volume control
  14. Standing still at the top of an escalator

Am I going to come back?  But not with a swear box.  It would be too expensive.

 

 

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Dim Sum

p1050460Apart from sightseeing, writing and quilting one of the things that has kept me off the streets of Shanghai has been my cookery lessons at The Chinese Cooking Workshop.  Just after we arrived I reported to you my first Dim Sum lesson in which I learnt to make Spring Onion Pancakes and Pumpkin Dumplings.  Since then I have done another 19 more Dim Sum classes and so in theory I can make for you the following 40 dim sum dishes:

 

img_2680Some of them taste wonderful.  Others do not.  Some are dumplings, some are buns, others are wraps and still more are desserts and soups.  The fillings run from pork meat to seafood from vegetables to rice.  Some are steamed, some are deep fried.  Some I overcooked, others I did not.  The wraps can be made from bean curd, leaves, bread dough or pastry. With wheat flour, rice flour or potato flour.  In general we learned to make the wrappers from scratch, from piles of flour and water.  Some used hot water at this stage, others cold.  Dim Sum dishes are often served with a sauce.  This can vary from simple soy sauce or rice wine vinegar to the more complicated hot chilli sauce, ginger soy sauce, plum or black bean sauce.  I was helped all the way by this kind lady, who speaks about as much English as I do Chinese (not a lot) and  whose favourite term (like a lot of stall traders with limited English here) “looky, looky”.  But we got by, making as you can see, some quite complicated shapes, essentially out of flour and water paste, all the while translating my left-handed versions from her right-handed ones.  Once we are back in the UK I shall no doubt get out the tiny rolling pins I have acquired and make them again.  And if you are interested, I expect I could give you a lesson or two.

img_3804Taking Dim Sum is a Cantonese tradition, eaten as a brunch with lashings of tea.  Last year we had Dim Sum with one of Rozy’s friends, Joyce,  in Hong Kong and we have been to lunch with American friends  – the husband is of Cantonese descent who took us to their favourite Dim Sum restaurant in Shanghai on the 3rd floor of IAPM shopping Mall over the top of Shaanxi Nan Lu Metro Station.  (I think they have done quite a bit of research on the topic).  Dim Sum is said to be related to the earlier silk road tradition of Yum Cha – drinking tea.  Other parts of China also produce and eat these morsels – the most famous ones from the Shanghai region are the Xiao Long Bao of Nanxiang town, now subsumed into greater Shanghai and Jiaozi which are similar steamed dumplings that are then fried and so also known as potstickers.  In fact this weekend we went to Nanxiang town by Metro on line 11 and whilst we were there we called in at the Rihuaxuan Restaurant the birthplace of the Xiao Long Bao. The dumpling traditionally contains pork, or pork and shrimp or pork and crab meat combined with a gelatinous mixture that forms a soup on steaming, so a judicious use of spoon and sucking is required to avoid spraying soup everywhere when you take a bite out of the dumpling.  The crab dumplings were particularly delicious (Richard preferred the shrimp ones) and the pastry soft yet strong – I only managed to puncture one of them as I tried to lift it off steamer’s the bamboo mat.  I’m looking for my own bamboo steamer mats – so much prettier than the modern paper ones with holes in.  I’ve not been successful so far, but I’m still looking.

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Prunus Mume

As I write this in the first week of December, the temperature in Shanghai is in the mid teens.  Having just got back from a three week trip to the England and Scotland this is warm, yet the locals are wearing their down jackets, thigh length boots and furry shoes.  Winter here, although cold and dingy doesn’t last long and after two months we shall have got through it and reached the Spring Festival, as Chinese New Year is known. People will be putting plastic sprigs of plum blossom in their houses in anticipation of the real thing arriving in full bloom by before the end of February.

img_9462Last year in the last week of February my dear friend, Ulrika, from Sweden came to visit us for a week and we tried to cram as much as we could into her visit brief visit.  We were generally successful, to the extent that by the morning that she left I had to stay in bed, exhausted, rather than go with her to the airport.  Richard went instead.

We did many wonderful things together, but one of the most memorable was to visit the Yu Yuan or Jade Garden at the north end of the Old City of Shanghai. My report of the Garden in my first visit a year or so before was very despondent.  I found the garden small and cramped and too busy and I didn’t understand it all.  But over the years, my knowledge and understanding of Chinese Gardens has grown immeasurably and I have now come to find pleasure in them.  Much like Hidcote and Sissinghurst in the UK they would be even better if the number of of people visiting along with you was significantly reduced  and the answer to that of course is to go first thing in the morning as the gardens open for the day.  We didn’t.  But we did go at one of the best time of the year, when the bonsai’d Prunus mume – were all in bloom.  Its common names include Chinese plum and Japanese apricot. The flower is usually called plum blossom. The reason for the seemingly at odds names from the two countries is that it is related to both plums and apricots.

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There are a large number of varieties of Prunus Mume  (over 300 cultivars in China) and their colours vary from pure white through to a deep pink.  Some varieties are especially famed for their ornamental value, including the hongmei (红梅), taigemei, zhaoshuimei (照水梅), lü’emei (绿萼梅), longyoumei (龍游梅), and chuizhimei (垂枝梅).  On bonsai’d trees the blossom flowers are dense and cloud-like. Delicate white stamens in all the flowers add to their beauty.

Not only are they beautiful to look at, but they also have a heady scent, which becomes trapped within the many small courtyards of the garden and intensifies their fragrance.

On a grey February Day the blossoming trees against the deep red paintwork of the many garden pavilions and the white and grey of the walls provide a beautiful contrast.  Richard who joined us for the visit was blown away and is determined to see them all again before we leave Shanghai for good next Spring.  In fact we both loved them so much that we have had one planted back in our garden in Kent whilst we have been away.  It is difficult to find many varieties in the UK – we ended up with a white one for the garden, which has been planted by our pond.

But when we return I think that we shall be trying to find a cheap way to have bonsai’d ones in pots on our terrace.   I did find one company, but they were hideously expensive.

In amongst the garden’s pavilions are a fish ponds.  The Koi Carp are huge and plentiful – we are talking of fish 1 – 1.5 feet long and are well fed by the visiting crowds.  At this time of the year the Camelias are also in bloom, adding their own versions of pink, white and red to the colour scheme.

After the heady time in the garden we ended up in a three storey Chinese canteen restaurant in the middle of the YuYuan Bazaar which sits alongside the garden.  Typical Shanghai food is available here – from huge soup dumplings with straws to drink the liquid, stinky tofu translated into Chinglish as Deep-fried Bean Curd of Odor, greens and other dumplings, lotus root steeped in osmanthus syrup, wonton soup, and custard tarts, spring rolls and sesame balls, squid and dragon boat festival food  – flavoured rice steamed in bamboo leaves.

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You take a tray, walk down the banks of food that surround the outside walls of the restaurant and you pick whatever you fancy.  Cheap, cheerful and authentic Shanghai food, totally unlike any Chinese food you might find in the Chinese restaurants in the UK.

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Just, Why?

There are just some things that happen here that make me stop and think why?  Sometimes the answer  is obvious. Sometimes I’m baffled to this day.

Why would someone do that?

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Why did the marketing department think this was a good idea?

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It may be school finishing time, but why would parking like this, at a crossroads where a six lane road meets another six lane one, be a good idea?

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Your child might want a cuddle, but why here, like that?

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The architect has designed the building around the tree, so why then would you completely enclose a branch with a balustrade? Twice?

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This is the only roundabout I can think of in Shanghai. As the traffic drives on the right you have to go round it anticlockwise, so why did the scooter riders think going clockwise was a good idea?

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Why now?

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Why would you put a sign out, in the open air whilst it’s raining, that says “caution wet floor”?

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Why would you paint only the bottom half of a lamppost?  Once a year at that.

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Around the city I often see men huddled in groups, even when there is no obvious illegal gambling going on.  What are they doing?

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I wonder what or who these string flags spreading almost across the pavement were for?

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Why was this a good idea? Sticking artificial “flowers” in a hedge…….

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And why was the idea copied in a completely different part of the city, on the other side of the river?

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Does this lady dye her dog a different colour every img_9905time she puts on a new outfit? Or does she just wear turquoise or orange?


I suppose you do it, because you can.  But would you in London?

 

The Former French Concession, especially the western end is a very sophisticated part of town, with fancy large houses, high walls and imposing gates.  So why did someone decide to do this to their main gate?

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Why would you have notices on your metro system that says Please mind the gap, when there is no gap?

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And finally, she is holding tangerine peel to her nose.  Why?

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The J G Ballard Walk

If you have ever seen the film The Empire of the Sun, or read the books of J G Ballard you will have some idea of the early life of James Graham Ballard in Shanghai, but in the case of the film, at least, you will have had a Stephen Spielberg version of his early life in Shanghai.  The film showed a fictional interior of what was then known as the Cathay Hotel on the Bund (now The Peace Hotel ) and the Pagoda at the Longhua Temple, two well-known sights of Shanghai.  But this walk organised by Brits Abroad took us to that part of town that was outside the International Settlement – known at the time as “The Bad Lands” – on its western edges, where according to Ballard the people “lived an American style of life” during his childhood in 1930s Shanghai.

This area was popular with wealthy foreigners who were looking for larger homes with space around them on what was then on the very fringes of the city.  Ballard reports looking out and seeing paddy fields from his 3rd floor bedroom window.  Now the city extends for miles and miles over those fields.

img_1327I’ve done the walk a couple of times – once as part of the Brits Abroad Walks Team who for a nominal gift to charity take members on 2 hour long walks around various areas of the city and once with Richard, one morning when we were short of time – needing to get back in time to let in the washing machine repair man.  Richard loves the Former French Concession Area of town and found that this area, too, holds his fascination and has expressed a desire to go back again, saying that he could spend all day there wandering about.

The walk starts at the Shanghai Film Art Center, where once a year it acts as the focus for the Shanghai International Film Festival.  Across the road from here on the other side of the street is an interesting set of panels set into a

IMG_1335.jpggarden wall.  Just around the corner is Ballard’s mock-Tudor childhood home, built in 1925.  It’s currently undergoing one of its many refits and has indeed been rebuilt in concrete although the original carved  banisters from the staircase are reported to still exist. Until recently it housed a members club called the Xin Yue Club.  Quite what its next incumbents will be I do not know. All of the road names from the days of the the foreign settlement have img_1344been changed since the revolution and this area is no exception.  This is a view of the back of the Ballard house, taken from what was once called Columbia Road, now known as Panyu Road.  The front of the house is on a lane off what was once Amherst Avenue and is now Xinhua Road.  The lane itself is pretty enough, but as Richard pointed out, what was the point in  washing the lane whilst piles of rubbish are left to fester under the trees?

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Efforts are now being taken in Shanghai to rescue some of the remaining architectural features of the old buildings.  As my quilting group will testify there is a tendency for each new occupant to completely rip out the interior of any space they take over.  The apartment on the floor below us and on the next staircase here in Gubei Lu has been undergoing the renovation treatment for the past month at least. The sound travels up the concrete walls.  They have been using pneumatic drills and sanders and hammers to remove marble tiles, and all fixtures and fittings (there is banging going on as I write this).  Last quilt group meeting I had here I had to fit nine quilters in my small guest bedroom to get away from the noise. I have been known to sit in my laundry space on the balcony with ear plugs in……..About every other month someone, somewhere, in our block prepares their flat to move in.  Meanwhile I get more and more discombobulated (insane).

img_1352Anyway back to The Bad Lands.  The wealthy bankers, merchants, consuls and mill operators (Ballard’s father ran a cotton mill) that lived here employed western architects to build their mansions.  The Ballards’ was designed by a British Architect. The next house we stopped to look at was designed by an Hungarian Architect who made his name in Shanghai, Laslo Hudec.  He designed a img_1358img_1369number of houses in this area as well as more Gotham-style buildings such as the flat-iron Normandie Mansions on Huaihai Road, and The Park Hotel which overlooks People’s Square.

In particular he designed many of the houses for the Asia Realty Company on the next road we visited The Columbia Circle, a crescent that starts and ends on the old Amherst Avenue, (now Panyu Road) known now as the Foreign Lanes.  Here some 40 of the garden houses are now architecturally protected, as well as many others in the area, where you can find (alien to China) bay windows and glass panelled railings for example.

On a garden wall that sits on the open end of the U between the two ends of The Columbia Circle is this long plaque which is difficult to read and impossible to photograph in one go:

It reads:

Xihua Road starts from West Huaihai Road on the east and ends at West Zhongshan Road. The total length of the road in 227 metres. [sic] The road was constructed in the year of 1925. It was named Amherst Road, and then renamed Chaher Road in 1943 and renamed Fahd Road in 1947. It’s been called Xinhua Road since 1965. After International Settlement Authorities crossed the border to build Amherst Road in 1925, local and foreign merchant princes and riches built numbers of villas along the line.  All the garden residences in foreign-style lanes (now alley 211 and alley 329 on Xinhua Road) were designed by Wood deck [Hudeck]. There have presented many unique, wonderful but diversified styles of Britain, America, Netherlands, Italy, Spain and others. The Ares [area] is known as the best zone in the western suburb of Shanghai “Columbia Circle”. In 2004 Xinhua Road was listed as one of historical and cultural areas in Shanghai.

This should give you a flavour of Columbia Circle:

and the number of letter boxes outside this villa should give you an idea of the increase in the level of occupancy that has been achieved since the revolution:

 

Back on Xinhua Road one of the Garden Villas has been turned into a fancy French Restaurant & Bistro, Villa Le Bec:

 

Alongside is a 1930s English country-style garden residence and next to that an Italian Villa, built in 1932 for the Rong family – wealthy Chinese business tycoons with political connections (no photo).

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whilst on the other side of the road there is the former residence of the American Military Lieutenant General and his Chinese wife, now home to two Shanghai Orchestras.

img_1445and in a mixture of Western and Eastern Chinese styles the former home of the Chinese political chief Chen Guofu, who belonged to one of the four important families of 1920s Shanghai.

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From here the Brits Walk went on to visit the Hudec Memorial Hall (more of that another time), a brief stroll through the local Huashan Park and finally lunch for those who stayed on afterwards at The Gathering Clouds Yunnan (far South-West Province of China) Restaurant:

with a quick dash into The Pie Society for someone to buy a British-style Pie:

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Having A Rest

It seems that from a very early age the Chinese are trained to sleep anywhere.  img_4948Often on the metro I’ll watch toddlers dropping off to sleep in their Mother’s (usually it is the mother) arms.  It takes them next to no time to fall asleep and there is usually very little fuss made by the child.  Boy or girl, it usually just gently falls asleep.  Whether this is because parents usually only ever have one child and so their life revolves around that child’s body clock or whether it is because these infants are carried everywhere (there are very, very few prams to be seen in this city, although over the last few months we have noticed a marked increase) I don’t know.  Children up to the age of about 2 are always in their parents arms.  None of them seem to toddle anywhere outside, unless they are playing very close to home.

img_5672Anyway something in their upbringing means that this ability to fall asleep just about anywhere, at anytime, without it appearing to feeling vulnerable, carries on into adulthood.  Richard says that at work, after lunch, many will put their heads down on their desks and go to sleep for half and hour or so.

Out and about, it appears to me, that it doesn’t have to be after lunch.  A rest can be taken anytime.  Anywhere. On the metro:

in the street, feet on the scooter:

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lying on the scooter

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A flat-bed tricycle seems to be just designed for the job

In your shop:

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or making use of the furniture for sale in someone else’s shop:

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and if all else fails, bring a strap with you, hang it between two trees and make your own mini-hammock:

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The South Xizang (Tibet) Rd Pet Market

There are flower-cum-pet markets all over Shanghai, but the most fascinating is perhaps the one in South Xizang Road which runs north to south just to the west of the Old City of Shanghai.  The nearest metro station is Laoximen, which means old west gate (of the city), but it still has a flavour of the old city about it, even though the buildings are more modern.  This is not a place to go for the faint-hearted or for someone who believes that single-handedly you can change Chinese attitudes to animal welfare.  I took Charlie and his then girl friend Ella somewhere similar in the summer of 2015 and they wanted me to buy all the birds for sale in one shop and to set them free.  I refused saying that it would just encourage pet sellers to stock even more birds.

Unlike many of the other markets around the city, there are few flowers for sale here, only the odd plant stall for indoor plants or plants for aquaria.


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But what you can buy here are pets.  Any sort of pet you can think of that can live in a small apartment in this vast city of 30-odd million people. (That’s almost 4 times bigger than population of Greater London, for those of you who haven’t quite grasped quite how mind-bogglingly big this city is).

Not surprisingly in the country that first domesticated the goldfish over a thousand years ago, there are many breeds on sale, from Koi Carp to Bubble Eye, some of which are decidedly ugly.

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There are other pets to buy for keeping in tanks, from turtles and terrapins, salamanders to dyed frogs.

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You can buy stones or figures for your aquarium, or pots for your plants or for tea drinking:

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For some reason, which I have yet to fathom you can also buy gourds or carved walnuts or indeed a carved figure of the sign of your zodiac (Chinese that is):

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And then there are the banks of caged birds:

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or birds in their own cages

p1070383some far too young:

p1070340or the “pet” ones that are chained to their perch

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and the mealworms to feed them with:

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There are also guinea pigs, rabbits, squirrels and chipmunks:

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and the puppies and cats:

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as well as the locusts, cicadas and crickets with all sorts of cages sold for transporting and housing them:

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so that their new owners can listen to them sing:

The only consolation in all this is that the lives of the stall holders don’t seem to be much different:

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